ABOUT
PORT DICKSON
Port
Dickson, the playground resort in
Negeri Sembilan, is thirty-four
kilometers from the state capital
of Seremban and about an hour and
a half from Malaysia's capital city,
Kuala Lumpur. It has miles of fine
sandy beaches fringed by Casuarinas,
palms, and the intricate, above-ground
root formations of the Banyan tree.
The road to Port Dickson hugs the
Malaysian coastline, making impromptu
rest and swim stops almost impossible
to resist. Vendors along the road
offer thirst-quenching drinks of
coconut water and sugar-cane juice.
A complete menu of leisure activities
is available in Port Dickson, including
water-skiing, canoeing, snorkeling,
windsurfing, and sailing, all of
which can easily be handled through
the reception desk at your hotel.

Despite
Port Dickson's reputation as an
area firmly focused on beach resort
activity, the sights and history
of the surrounding area are well
worth experiencing. At Kota Lukut,
a mere seven km from Port Dickson,
stands the fort of Raja Jumaat,
a renowned nineteenth-century Bugis
warrior. The fort was built in 1847
to control the lucrative tin trade
in the area. Another rewarding site
is the lighthouse at Cape Rachardo,
built by the Portuguese in the 16th
century in order to guide ships
to the safety of Malacca's harbor.
The lighthouse is still functioning
today, and visitors can ascend its
narrow spiral stair to the beacon,
which offers a magnificent view
of the coastline of Sumatra. The
Cape is also a popular stopover
point for migratory birds. From
September to March, flocks of sparrows,
honey buzzards, and swifts can be
seen here, together with birds of
prey, such as hawks and eagles.

Twenty-three
kilometers south of the lighthouse,
on the road to Malacca, sits the
small and mysterious village of
Pengkalan Kempas. The village
houses the enigmatic 15th-century
tomb of Sheikh Ahmad Majnun, whose
epitaph explains that he fell
while fighting to save a now unknown
woman referred to simply as "the
princess."
It
is home to a more prominent
mystery as well, however. Beside
the tomb stand three megaliths,
elaborately carved, of unknown
origin and use. As if to seal
the reputation of this hamlet
of the unknown, there is also
in Pengalen Kempas an "ordeal
stone." This ancient lie-detector,
through which a person would
put his arm when answering questions,
allegedly reacts to an untruth
by closing upon the liar's fist.
Whether or not this story is
true makes for an interesting
dare.
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